Point Reyes: Tomales Point

Above: One of the many stunning views we enjoyed on our most recent hike. :)

My friend Maria and I decided to explore once more Point Reyes National Seashore, only this time, we chose to hike-with-elk on the Tomales Point trail. It's a trail that leads you to the very north-east end of the Seashore, where you stand where the pointy piece of land meets the sea and feel you're on the very end of the continent. Quite an amazing feeling.

To get there, you drive along Point Pierce Road, past several very old ranches, from the mid-1800s, which astounded me. Who knew (or had thought about, I suppose) that these old ranches were still around? It was fascinating to me to look around and wonder what had changed since those ranches were first planned in this picturesque spot.

On the way, you drive past several other (shorter) trails, but our quarry lay at the very end of the Pierce Point Road--the Tomales Point trailhead.




As has been the pattern recently with our Point Reyes hikes, it was a light drizzle but not exactly cold and thankfully, not windy. Throoughout the hike, the weather was consistently damp, if not downright wet, but since we both had new raingear to try out, we were perfectly happy to go stomping off down the trail in search of a rainy adventure.



The damp trail is hard-packed dirt for the first 3/4 of the hike:

The trail hugs the coastline for the most part, resulting in some stunning (albeit a little hazy) views such as the following:


As the hike progresses, vegetation increases, as do rabbit sightings, and the trail becomes a little overgrown. If it's damp when you go there, be prepared for wet socks/shoes/pants because you're pushing past wet brush as you work your way down the trail.


About 3 miles or so through the hike, you come across a surprising grove of eucalyptus trees, thriving in the harsh environment, and providing a perfect place for a snack and a look-round.


The most famous part of this trail, however, despite the stunning views, is the opportunity to hike through an elk herd. These magnificent and peaceful animals seem pretty used to people, but they don't hesitate to scatter quickly if you approach too quickly up the trail, however.

We did see elks with and without antlers, in gender-specific groups for the most part--all very peaceful although determined to outstare any bipods wandering through their preserve.


As you approach the last few miles of the hike, you'll notice that the going gets a little tougher as the terrain turns to dark coarse sand, which is, of course, a little harder (but still not exactly tough) to hike through.

There are plenty of rewarding views along the way, however.

Below: the rock island in the disance is actually Bird Rock, white in the summer from bird poop, but cleaned by the winter storms thus far this season.

The end reward is definitely worth the journey, however, so keep going all the way to the end because you'll see craggy cliffs, cormorants, pelicans, tidepools (at the bottom of said cliffs), and a view that makes you feel as if you've reached the very tip of the continent.

Below: Quite a wonderful lunch spot. We enjoyed our hummus, wraps, apples--and a view of the western side of the Point--lots of cormorants sitting on the lower rock and plenty of roaring waves to keep you well aware of the power of the Pacific.


We tried to keep a safe distance from the crumbling edge of the cliffs, particularly on this damp February day when the land is saturated and just aching to fall into the sea.

Below: Plenty of cormorants unfazed by the drizzle:


The Point trail was fabulous, even in the drizzle, and once again, my hiking experience, as it does each time, inspired my gratitude that I live so close to such wonderful vistas. I can't believe my good fortune that I am able (in time, health, and ability) to explore such stunning places as the places I've hiked so far this season. I'm truly grateful.

Notes:

• About 1.5 hours drive.
• Parking allows about 12 cars or so, but plenty of parking on the road nearby.
• Weather: mid 50s, damp to moderate rain, no wind (whihc, if present, I think could have resulted in a harsher hike)
• About 5 hours including pauses of pix, snacks, and lunch.

Stats:

Tomales Point Trail: 4.7 miles each way

Total: 9.4 miles round trip.

Want to learn more: http://www.nps.gov/pore/index.htm

Point Reyes Map: http://www.nps.gov/PWR/customcf/apps/maps/showmap.cfm?alphacode=pore&parkname=Point%20Reyes%20National%20Seashore

Table Rock/Mt St Helenas

Above: Hoodoos, volcanic rock formations, from the Palisades Trail in Robert Louis Stevenson State Park, near Calistoga.

This week, I went for an exploration of the Robert Louis Stevenson State Park. Specifically, I had intended to hike to Table Rock and through the Palisades Trail to Holms Homestead.


First, Table Rock--it's an easy 2.2 miles from the dirt pullout/parking for the trails. (Look for the pedestrian crossing 400 yards sign on the Calistoga Grades Road, a little past the Robert Louis Stevenson State Park sign. The pullouts are very soon after that sign.) The pullouts are tiny (only about 9 cars on the Table Rock side and perhaps 6 cars on the Mt St Helena's side; they are both right opposite each other on each side of 29).

Below: The trail up to Table Rock was foresty, loamy, and full of animal tracks of various types. Traffic is pretty audible, however, but the trail seemed deserted until I returned, when most people seemed to be headed for Table Rock.



Below: You'll see this sign once you've walked a little over a mile on the Table Rock trail. This overlook sign is actually a little prematurely placed if it's intended to point out the actual Table Rock. Keep walking about another 500 yards to the actual Table Rock formation; it's not overt from this overlook sign.



Table Rock had some great views:




Table Rock itself was pretty impressive--a cluster of large volcanic rock, upon which you could sit and look around at a birds'-eye view of Calistoga and the surrounding mountains. All very pretty.
Below: Table Rock from the trail.



After enjoying the Table Rock vistas, I rturned down the Table Rock Trail to the main trail, and turned right, and continued up the hill, hoping to find the Palisades Trail, which I expected to be relatively overt. (See all those qualifiers in the preceding sentence? You should be feeling some fore-shadowing at this point. :))

The Palisades Trail, unsigned it turned out but later confirmed by maps, starts as soon as you turn up the hill on the maint trail from Table Rock Trail. This trail, as Bald Mountain and Vista Trails from last week were, was surrounded by these plants, which bees adore apparently. Get used to the ever-present buzz of bees, who seem to be very conscientious guardians as they accompany you on your hike.


Onward: the Palisades Trail reminded me in places of the Sierras--pine smell, volcanic rocky trail, hardy plants, great views.




Once I reached the rocks above, however, much to my consternation, I found that the trail completely disappeared into bush. There were a few cairns here and there, but they either led me straight into brush or down the hill and into brush. I looked everywhere for the trail, bushwhacking and peering into the distance, but no dice.

In the end, without a GPS, I decided against continuing, much to my chagrin, and turned back. I was disappointed, however. I had wanted to see the Palisades, a mile-long volcanic rock wall described as one of the prettiest hikes in Napa. Oh well. Another time.

I worked back down the trail to the lot, and there, lightened my pack into the car, and then I simply crossed the road and started up toward Mt St Helena's--the two trailheads are directly opposite each other, which was great. Just be extremely careful crossing 29; it's on two blind corners, and drivers speed crazily along that road. You don't your last hike to be your last hike.

Mt St Helena's has been on my list for a while, and I was happy that I could do that today.

The two trails are well signed throughout, although the Stevenson/Helena sign was about 20 yards into the trail, past a tiny clearing with a picnic bench:



To get to the Mt St Helena's Trail, you first must walk the Stevenson Memorial Trail a short, accessible trail with very generous switchbacks and,consequently, several points at which hikers had made short-cuts.

After walking along this restful foresty, shaded trail, accompanied by the chuckling of a shaded brook, you reach this memorial, at the 0.8 miles mark, to Robert Louis Stevenson, the famous author who honeymooned in the area and actually wrote The Silvarado Squatters there.


After seeing the Stevenson Memorial, you scramble up some severely eroded trail:


and find, eventually, this sign, when you pop out in a relieved fashion on a fire road:

And you're ready to start up the hill. No more chuckling brooks, no more forested shade, no more Mr Nice Guy. Be prepared with plenty of water, block, and sunhats--the entire Mt St Helena's trail is actually a switch-backey fire road to allow the maintenance vehicles up to take care of the communications towers on top of the summmits.

It's an easy surface upon which to hike, but I can see that it would be brutal in the hot summer--no shade unless you're in the shade of the mountain, which is rare. Today was a perfect day for such a hike, however, but it still demanded a good sun hat, block, and plenty of water.

There were plenty of stunning views on the way up, and the raptors and butterflies and chipmunks/ground squirrels seemed happy to keep me company as I walked along:



I knew that the summit has several communications towers on them, but I didn't realize that there aretwo earlier 'false summits' also full of communication towers. Be prepared then to pass two communication tower summits before you reach the actual North Peak. Once you see this sign, you're about 0.5 mile from the top. :)


The views were tremendous although a little hazy on this day. Still, I could recognize Lake Berryessa, Napa, and Calistoga, and others more topo-orientated than I, could probably have recognized Hood Mountain and others in the surrounding peaks. It's worth that final steep push to the end.

There was no-one else on the peak when I was there. Since it was getting late in the day, I didn't want to be last on the mountain, so I started down again pretty promptly. On the way down, I saw these climbers, also enjoying the day on igneous Bubble Rock (so called because it is riddled with round holes):

Stats:
a) Weather: beeyutiful: mid-60's, starting out cloudy but breaking into blue and sun, mild wind now and then. A few wispy clouds here and there.

b) 1.5 hours drive from home--about 7 miles from Calistoga; on the way there, actually, I drove by the Old Faithful Geyser, the Petrified Forest, and the Bothe-Napa State Park, all of which are worthy of their own visit.

c) no parking fee, but get there early; the lots are small and fill up very quickly. The lots are on blind corners in both directions; be prepared to have your hair turn grey when you're trying to leave the lot after the hike.

d) bring a map with you from the web; there are none available at these trailheads. You don't need a map for the Mt St Helena's trail; it's just straight up and down. A topo map would have been helpful for finding the Palisades Trail, however.

e) Mt St Helena's is a 2,068-foot climb. 5-5.1 miles (depending on your source). Including the Stevenson Trail (and excluding Table Rock), the hike time was about 4 hours total--quicker down than up, of course.

Table Rock:
To Table Rock Outlook: 2.2 miles each way
To Palisades Blockade: about 1.5 miles each way
Total: 7.7 miles

Mt St Helena's:
Stevenson Memorial Trail: 0.8 mile each way
Mt St Helena's North Peak: 4.2 each way
Total: 10 miles

Day's total: 17.7 miles. Longest yet.

Want more info? http://www.parks.ca.gov/?page_id=472

Sugar Loaf Ridge State Park: Bald Mountain/Vista Trails

This time last week, I, for one, still had no idea that Sonoma/Sugar Loaf Ridge has such beautiful views. Now, blogging this hike a few days later, I know that that area is well worth visiting with really enjoyable and stunning foothill type of hikes--it's a winner of a hiking spot and now one of my favorite low-elevation areas.

So--the original plan was to meet up with my usual hiking group and hike up Hood Mountain, but, due to some confusion on our end, I and a few others from my original group ended up walking with a different hiking group, this one from the North Bay. Very friendly people willing to adopt some errant hikers from another group, so I appreciated their company.

After some confusion as to who was in what group and where the hike was going to go, we ended up walking up Stern Trail on our way to Bald Mountain. This trail is pretty direct (good), but it's also paved the entire way (less good). While the company was interesting, therefore, the paved trail was a little disappointing.

I learned that I don't much enjoy walking on paved trails although this one had some pretty redeeming views:
Still, paved roads,for me, lack the feeling of exploration or escape that seem to come inherently with a hard packed dirt or loam single track trail. I hadn't been to Bald Mountain before, however, and it was rumored to have wonderful 360 views of the Napa countryside, so I decided to go check it out with the newly adopted group.

As we marched up toward our destination, I noted that there were numerous trail offshoots along the way, so I knew that, on the way down, I would do some 'sploring of the other (non-paved) trails.

Once at the top, the view from the top of Bald Mountain was, indeed, worth it. You could see all the way to Point Reyes in one direction to the SF city in another to Mount St Helene in another to Pyramid Peak (in the Sierras) in yet another direction--all four compass directions had wonderful views--quite stunning. It was also a very clear day, so you could see as far as your eyes would allow you to do so. Plus there were very helpful signs to help you identify the peaks around, and overall, it was definitely worth the hike up.

The question for me, of course, would be the most scenic and enjoyable way to go down from this vista-rich peak. The map showed several possibilities that reduced significantly the amount of time spent on the paved road, so I determined to explore the options on the way down.

After studying the (really helpful) State Park map (available for $1 from the Visitor Center/park ranger), I decided to explore the Vista Trail. Any trail named 'Vista' is probably worth exploring since park officials tend to keep that name for the most beautiful trails.

So, about 1.2 miles down the Bald Mountain Trail/road, I side-tracked down Vista. By the way, on the way down Bald Mountain Trail and all along Vista, I kept hearing an ominous buzzing of bees, and, after looking around to see what was up, I realized that the trees on the side of the trail were all in bloom, and that they were consequently just dripping with bees. It seemed early in the year for the bee/bloom thing to be happening, but it was neat to see that at least those types of bees were thriving.

As soon as I stepped onto Vista, I felt myself relaxing as I realized that now I was doing what I had come to do. Vista was a single-track hard-dirt, loam trail, surrounded by trees, bushes, streams, and creeks, and nary a paved road in sight. There were tiny bridges, interesting creek crossings, lots of winding trails close to woody and leading meadowy/big sky areas---yes, this was what I had come to experience, and now, thankfully, I was. I was so happy; it was perfect, and while a day hiking is never awful, of course, Vista truly made the day fit more closely my expectations and hopes.

Vista is a pretty great collection of trail types. You walk through mossy, damp, wooded tree areas to various open meadow and hillside/big sky type of trails, and, as with all trails, you're just never sure what is coming up around the corner. It was wonderful. Since it's been so wet recently, it was a pretty muddy trail, but my Keen shoes are great for that type of hiking, so I was happy as a clam as I sloshed and squelched along the trail.

Half way along Vista, I discovered the name-sake area for the trail-- a huge rock upon which you could sit and just enjoy the view of several large rolling hills straight in front of you. It was a peaceful pondering place. Below you lies a vast expanse of downhill meadow, and you could sit there and just enjoy the day. Well worth leaving the paved trail for this experience.

Because it's been so damp recently and because my other group had planned to hike Goodspeed Trail and because that trail had been thought to have a creek crossing, I had my Teva sandals with me along with a tiny camp towel because we thought we'd need to do some paddling across the trail.

Why do I mention this tiny gear-fact? Because at the end of Vista, there turned out to be a relatively small but determined creek lying directly across the trail--possibly about 6 feet wide and maybe five inches deep.

Hmm--too deep for Keens, but perfect for my Tevas. :) I hadn't done a creek crossing before, and while I realized it was in no way dangerous, it was kind of fun to do. I changed shoes, repacked my bag, and ventured across the creek. The water was invigorating and my feet were refreshed, and the whole thing was quite the adventure for this new hiker. I was happy to have the right gear to be able to do so.

After the creek crossing, the trail opened up a little into more meadowy surrounds, and I joined the Hillside Trail, which looked more like this:

Hillside was quite steep in places, but always pretty, with plenty of hills, meadows, trees, and even deer to see as you walked along the trail. I couldn't believe that we hadn't hiked up that way to begin with, but ce'st la vie. It was a very pleasant people walk up the hill, after all.

Once I returned to the car (via Hillside and then along the Creekside Nature Trail--very sweet with a bridge, it turns out, built by a colleague when he was an Eagle Scout way back when), I wanted to explore one more trail. I had heard about a terrific waterfall in the area, and since it had been raining so much, I thought now would be a terrific time to find it.

I walked out of the park, down the road for about 200 yards, and then turned left and went down, down, down on the Canyon Trail-- a short steep, stepped trail, about 0.6 miles each way, down to the waterfall.

It was a pretty, primeval, damp forest, with plenty of moss-covered trees, sticky trails, and no sounds.

After about 0.5 miles, I found myself at one smaller waterfall (or really a series of stepped waters because the water didn't really fall so much as work its way down a series of rocks). It was pretty enough to almost convince me to stop there, partly because it was getting a little late and party because I could tell that the going up hike would be pretty rough on my knees; still--I wanted to see the big waterfall about which I had heard so much, and since I was mostly there, I decided to keep going toward the larger roar of water, and I was very glad I did.

Pictures can't do the waterfall justice, of course, but it was pretty stunning, no? Lots of mossy rocks, the huge wall of roaring sound coming from the falls and about 20 feet or so of rushing water. I was the only one there at the time, so as a bonus, it felt like my own personal falls and truly, it was a great end to my invigorating day.

Stats:

• mid-50's, cloudy/sunny/dry


• $8 to enter park--worth it since the parks are feeling the economic pinch too. Many park in the small turnouts along the way, but since I was using the park, I thought I should probably pay that pittance to do so. Plus, before you believe that I'm being too righteous for words, I have to note that also there were no available parking spots outside the park. :)


• pay $1 to get the trail map; the trails themselve are well signed, but the overall trail map sign at the trail head is faded and hard to read. The map came in very handy once I discovered I wanted to change the trails. I learned also that it's well worth studying the map before you go up a trail; if I had studied it more closely, I could have seen even before the hike started that that trail was going to be paved.


• about 1.5 hours from home
  

Trails:

Going Up:
Stern Trail (paved): 0.35

Bald Mountain Trail (paved): 3.4 one way

Going Down:
Bald Mountain Trail (paved): 1.2

Vista Trail (dirt with creek crossing): 3.2

Hillside Trail (dirt): 0.75

Side Trip:

Canyon Trail (dirt, steep trail steps) to waterfall: 0.6 x 2 =1.2

plus lots of wandering: 1.5

Total: 11.25 miles

Want more info? http://www.parks.ca.gov/?page_id=481