Point Reyes Nat'l Seashore: Bear Valley to Arch Rock

First, after I had healed just fine from the appendix, I injured my knee after some ill-advised running, and so I couldn't hike from just before Christmas until today.

But--today finally came, and I judged my knee was strong enough to handle a hike. This time, we went off, this time not up the Hill, but rather to the Point Reyes National Seashore to explore the hiking gems there.


My intrepid friend Maria and I decided to hike from Bear Valley Visitor Center along the:

1. Bear Valley Trail to
   
2. Arch Rock whereupon we had lunch and then returned via
   
3. Sky Trail to
   
4. Coast Trail to
   
5. Baldy Trail which led us safely back to the last part of
   
6. Bear Valley Trail and the Visitor Center.

All the trails are well signed, and the Visitor Center has trail maps and lots of advice. I left my loyal hiking poles there, incidentally. Sigh. I called the center, and the ranger said they'll hold them safely until I return on Friday to pick them up.

After several weeks of foggy weather, it was a relief, once we arrived on the coast, to see that the weather cleared for the first half of the hike for a very much appreciated clearish day, clear enough for sun-block and a cap.

The weather was also easily clear enough to enjoy the views at Arch Rock.

Below: views of the coast looking North (top) and South (bottom) from Arch Rock



On the rock, we found ourselves in a gaggle of Boy Scouts, also out to enjoy the day, and coincidentally, the Meetup group. :)


Bear Valley Trail: highly popular trail because it's the most accessible trail from the Visitor Center. Be prepared for company (trail runners, families, Boy Scouts, mountain bikers). It's very workable to share the trail, but just don't go expecting isolation.

The trail itself is a smooth, fire trail really, but with loam. Pretty muddy, of course, this time of year, but as Maria noted, there's really 'no bad weather; only bad clothing.' We were well prepared with waterproof boots and layers, so the mud and weather was no issue to us.

Some mountain bikers here and there on the trail; they can bike up to the four way junction of Glen Camp, Bear Valley Trail (which continues straight) and Baldy, but there they have to lock their bikes to a bike stand and then hoof it the rest of the way.

Bear Valley Trail leads all the way to Arch Rock, a largish, smallish promontory, jutting out into the sea--great for lunch and rugged Northern CA coastal views.

Whales are a little further up north by the Lighthouse, so no whales for us today, but,during our lunch break, we did see plenty of diving seagulls and what looked like cormorants, plunging into the sea. All of the wildlife action was accompanied, of course, by stunning ocean views.

The actual arch is underneath the promontory, so if you want to see it, you have to climb down a steep little use trail just before you get to the rock outlook, and then clambor over a tide pool or two. It's worth doing, but you need steady feet on the way down and on the slippery rocks. If you do go down, be careful also as you stand looking at the archway. Rogue waves come up through the arch, and they can at least splash you if not threaten to knock you down/into the sea.

Below: We joined the scouts who had earlier clambored down the trail because we all wanted to see the famed 'arch' of Arch Rock.

The gentleman in the white hat in the picture above got soaked a few seconds after this picture was taken. Fortunately, however, neither the guy nor any of the scouts was knocked into the sea. I was amazed and relieved that nobody needed rescuing.

My son later advised me to "Never stand on wet rocks." Wise advice, my friend, wise advice.

Coast Trail to Sky Trail: the Coast Trail leads pretty quickly to the Sky Trail, abd both are off the beaten path compared to Bear Valley Trail. Coast and Sky are each much smaller trails than Bear Valley (which appears to be one of the main trails from the Visitor Center--much more accessible than these smaller trails).


Sky Trail is a single track trail, pretty steep in places, which takes you up through ferns and trees. It's a pretty trail, with periodic views of the ocean here and there. Because it's steeper, there are many fewer people on it, so it's a much quieter way back than Bear Valley Trail.

Below: views of Arch Rock from near Sky Trail. Looking below at the ocean line, you can kind of see the North side of the arch.

Baldy Trail: No pics for this one, but Baldy is also a much quieter trail than BV Trail because it too is steeper (only going down this time) and because it's a single track. Very foresty and ferny, very pretty, and accompanied by the chuckling of a creek with periodic tiny waterfalls.

Weather:

• Mostly cloudly for the first half, with increasing mist leading to a pretty steady shower for the second half. It's a good idea to bring water/windproof layers to the coast, even in summer.


• Temps were mid-high 50s, so not cold.


• Always windy on the coast, however, so bring some layers for the time spent on Arch Rock.

Stats:

• Bear Valley Trail to Glen Camp/Baldy junction: 2.9 miles


• Bear Valley Trail from junction to Arch Rock: 1.0 mile


• Coast Trail to Sky Trail to Baldy Trail: 1.5 miles


• Baldy Trail to Bear Valley Trail junction: 1.1 miles


• Bear Valley Trail back to Center: 2.9 miles


• Total mileage: 9.4 (plus about half a mile of wandering around exploring).

Time: about five hours (including pauses on trail for pix and lunch on rock).

Map of Point Reyes National Seashore area: http://www.nps.gov/pore/planyourvisit/upload/map_pore_areamap.pdf

Point Reyes National Seashore website: http://www.nps.gov/pore/index.htm

Overall: highly recommended--great trail. If you'd like a quieter route to Arch Rock, avoid Bear Valley Trail.